To Rome With Love

The other day Mr. Butter and I went on a little movie date to see WoodyAllen's newest creation, To Rome With Love. The highlight of this movie for us was, of course- the setting! We were excited to see the streets and piazzas where we spent our honeymoon together. The images of the Eternal city and the wonderful italian music were certainly the best parts of the movie. The film was written and directed by Woody (of course!) so I think you can know what to expect without me having to say much. However, I much preferred the story in Midnight In Paris to this one. 

All in all it was fun to cuddle up in the movie theater and enjoy a walk down memory lane with my husband! 

Photo via this site.

Where to Shop When In Rome

Most of your time in Rome will be spent seeing the wondrous sights and eating as much pizza, pasta, and gelato as you can get your hands on, but a little shopping may also be in order. Here are some of my favorite spots to burn a little cash.

Via del Corso is the main shopping drag in Rome, but I prefer Via Cola di Rienzo across the river. It's less crowded but still easy to access. It may not have all of the big name designers, but it's home to most of my favorite stores in the city.

The bustling aisles of Castroni are always on my list. It has a ton of delicious goodies hidden inside and I usually find a good amount of souvenirs for my family here since we are all food junkies. They have great spices, chocolates, and even vacuum sealed risotto so you can take a taste of Italy back to states.

Down the street is Zara Home. If you love Zara clothing, you'll love this place too. I wanted to buy every towel, blanket, wine glass, and bathroom accessory I could get my hands on in here! They have a wide array of beautiful items for your home at a really affordable price. I particularly love their dining ware and bath textiles. The color palettes are great and it's fun to think of Italy every time you use your Zara dishes or hand towel.

Via Cola di Rienzo is also home to Sabon, which I've already gushed about but I will do so again. My love affair with Sabon actually began while I was living in Trastevere and I've been smitten ever since. I am head over heals in love with the Lavender Apple Body Scrub. It makes your skin feel baby soft and the scent is heavenly! They have expanded to many other cities now, but if you don't have one in your area it's worth a visit. The soap flakes are a fun addition to a guest bath or sprinkled into a warm bath.

Tim's favorite shop in Italy for men's fashion is Boggi Milano, also on Via Cole di Rienzo. He brought home a charming wool tie and a great cologne. If you want classic Italian looks for men, this is the spot. If you're feeling fancy they had some dapper suits! Tim, as always, made a friend during his time at Boggi.

Back on the other side of the river near the Pantheon is the adorable and charming Bartolucci. This little shop is full of amazing woodwork pieces, including quite a few Pinocchio objects. It's fun for children and adults, and also a great spot to grab something special for loved ones at home. They have everything from keychains to clocks all crafted from wood into adorable and quirky characters. I always have trouble retracing my steps back here. It's on a small street near some of the big sights (Via dei Pastini, 98) and I seem to only be able to find it when I'm not looking for it. Please disregard my incredibly silly face in the photo above. I was trying to mimic the Pinocchio....

There are tons of street vendors in Rome, and it can be hard to determine what is good to buy from one and what is not. Stay away from the fake luxury goods, weird little trinkets (what is with the crystal squares with etchings of Roman monuments everywhere?), and by all means the underwear. I kid you not we passed multiple stands that were selling underwear on the street! Pashminas and scarves are popular finds, and you can always haggle with them for a good deal. There's a good stand outside of Bartolucci that always has a good deal on scarves. For edible goodies I recommend the stands at Campo Dei Fiori. Pick up some balsamic vinegar syrup while you are there. It's such a treat and super expensive in the US. There are also a handful of stands in the market that sell nice handmade jewelry and leather goods.

On Borgo Pio near the Vatican you can find some great discount souvenir shops, although most of them will stock religious goods only. There are some gorgeous rosaries, discounted traditional italian paper goods, and beautiful crosses.

We also encountered some amazing antique stores along the side streets near Piazza Navona. If only I could stuff some gilded Italian furniture into my suitcase to bring home...

Enjoy!

Mangia!

It basically goes like this: espresso, pizza, gelato, pasta, repeat. 

The food in Italy is amazing. I mean really truly madly deeply amazing. But beware: there are many cheap (or not so cheap) impostors! A good rule of thumb is if you spot a restaurant with any of the following qualities, just stay away: menus on large boards with photos of the food, anything in a direct line of sight of any major tourist attraction, or men who are basically trying to grab you off the street and into their restaurant.

Let me introduce this first restaurant by stating that I once went to Rome solely to eat here. Yes, it's that good. You will probably want to visit it more than once, so plan accordingly. La Fraschetta (Via San Francesco a Ripa 134 in Trastevere) looks like a tiny hole in the wall from the outside but is a treasure trove of delicious Italian food on the inside. You must, and I mean MUST, order the bruschetta al pomodoro (see below). It may appear to be simply bread with a tomato on it but do not be fooled. It is heavenly bread drizzled in the most delectable of olive oils, toasted in a wood fire oven with the juiciest slices of seasoned tomatoes on top. Just do it. Don't feel bad if you want to order it in place of desert. It's worth it. My favorite pasta is the Fettucine alla Boscaiola with mushrooms, peas, panchetta, and a tomato cream sauce. The pizza is amazing as well. Tim ordered a simple pizza con prosciutto and I couldn't stop stealing little bites. They have great house wines and the panna cotta would be my choice for desert. 

La Scala (Piazza della Scala 60 in Trastevere) serves some nice and simple pastas that are great for lunch. I enjoyed the spaghetti with olive oil and red pepper flakes and find that sometimes the dishes with the simplest ingredients can be the most difficult to make. But if you chose only one place in Trastevere to eat at, make sure it's La Fraschetta.

If you're out and about sight seeing in the city center I would stop by Colline Emiliane (Via degli Avignonesi 22). Established in 1931 this small restaurant is somewhat hidden yet conveniently located near some of the top sights. The pumpkin ravioli would be my pick!

I am also a big fan of visiting the local supermarkets for lunches and snacks. Since I lived in Trastevere (and it's also one of my favorite neighborhoods) I frequented Supermercato Standa on Viale di Trastevere 60. You can enjoy great breads, cheese, salami and wine on a small budget. If you're in the city center near Piazza Navona or the Coliseum I would stop by Despar (via Giustiniani 18b). It's a basic grocery store but can be a life saver in the land of over priced fruit stands and cafes targeted at tourists. While shopping on Via Cola di Rienzo you can pick up some afternoon snacks at Billa (Via Cole Di Rienzo 0171-173 located inside of the Coin store.) If you want a fresh market make sure to visit Campo dei Fiori (which we will visit again in the shopping guide!) or pop into the local cheese or butcher's shops. Just be ready to test out your Italian skills! 

For local treats to take home I like to peruse Castroni (via Cola di Rienzo 196). They have great dry pastas, spices, chocolates, oils, balsamic vinegars and limoncellos. These make great gifts for your loved ones!

Make sure you enjoy a lot of cappuccinos, lattes and espressos. Drink them at the counter like a true Roman or you'll end up paying extra for table service. I like to try out all of the different pastries each cafe has to offer. I usually wander down windy side streets until I find a cafe that has some charm and looks interesting. I don't think I ever came across a cafe that wasn't any good. The espresso is so good that they would have to try pretty hard to make it bad. 

The same goes for gelato. I usually pick spots based on how fluffy and rich their gelato displays are. There are some famous spots (I'll let the existing guide books tell you about those) but I recommend discovering your own! I came across a fantastic little spot nestled against a cobbled wall full of ivy that I would have never found in a guide book. I stumbled upon it while browsing tiny streets full of antique shops not too far from Piazza Navona. My favorite flavors are pistachio, Nutella, coffee, or lemon on a hot day. If you are near the Trevi Fountain you can stop by Melograno Gelateria on P. Di Trevi 101. Near the Vatican there's a great little spot called Blue Ice (Via Ottaviano n.7) that serves up a good gelato as well as some other sweet treats.

Enjoy and buon appetito! 

When In Rome

Buon giorno! Welcome to my city guide for Rome, "When in Rome". I am thrilled to share all of my favorite places to eat and drink, the best shopping areas, and my favorite sights to see. Creating a travel guide of sorts has been on my to do list for a long time. Throughout my travels I have kept journals documenting the hits and misses and must sees. Traveling to new and exciting places is one of my many passions but I find that most guide books lead you to places that are full of tourists and rarely give you a true taste of the city. I hope these guides inspire you to take off on your own adventure and discover the wonders of the city!

I first visited Roma in the summer of 2005 on my own version of a "Grand Tour" of Europe. See that photograph of St. Peter's Basillica in the gorgeous Italian sunset? That captures the exact moment that I fell in love with Rome. I decided right then and there that I wanted to participate in a study abroad program in the Eternal City and applied as soon as school was back in session. The next summer I took off for another summer abroad. At the end of my travels I set up shop in Rome. I lived in an adorable apartment in Trastevere and would spend hours wandering the cobblestone streets admiring all of the history surrounding me. It was truly an amazing and unforgettable experience. But nothing compares to spending a week sharing the wonders of this great city with my husband on our honeymoon. That was the good life.

First up, "What To Eat When In Rome" because (obviously) we all know the food is the most important!!

The Honeymooners

Mr. Butter and I had the blessing of being able to travel to Rome on our honeymoon. It was an absolute dream come true! Instead of having a traditional wedding gift registry, we opted for a honeymoon registry with Honeyfund. We are so grateful to everyone who contributed to making our Italian honeymoon a reality. 

More photos and tales of our adventures...

We endured quite a long journey to get to our destination. I made sure to keep Tim informed and educated him on the history of Rome. Yes, I am a nerd.

Once we experienced the sweet joy of finally arriving we were greeted with sunshine and much welcomed warm weather. It was absolutely gorgeous. 

There were so many sights to see, so many wonders! 

And the food, oh the food. We ate pizza, gelato, and pasta every single day. It was delightful. 

We were carefree and enjoying every single moment in wedded bliss.

I gave a thumbs down at the Colosseum. I'm tough.

Mini car!!

We had some serious jet lag during our time abroad. But some of my favorite memories are from the nights spent awake together in our little apartment, sneaking off to the kitchen for a midnight snack of salami and mozzarella, and feeling like two kids who were up way past their bed time.

We couldn't get enough lattes and cappuccinos. We looked forward to it each morning...and maybe a few times throughout the day as well....

It was perfection, and yet full of surprises and adventure! I will cherish those memories forever.

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I am excited to announce that I will be doing a series of city guides. First up, Rome! I spent a semester doing study abroad in the Eternal city, and have been a visitor many times since. I am looking forward to sharing all of my favorite places and spaces with you!